Eons in the making: Yellowstone, America's first national park, is as thrilling as ever

If you go Yellowstone Park is open year-round, although in thewinter months, only the north entrance is accessible by the public.The peak season runs from April to November and visitors can enterthe park at four spots: Cody and Jackson, Wyo., and Gardiner and WestYellowstone, Mont. WHEN Thomas Jefferson sent two intrepidmountaineers into the wilderness to find an all-water route to thePacific, no one imagined the untamed wilderness that Meriwether Lewisand William Clark would explore. Though the pair stopped 50 milesoutside Yellowstone, a member of their entourage, John Colter,decided to split from the return caravan eastward to explore more ofthe virgin terrain. In his journals, he described the nearly volcanicgeysers and crystal-clear lakes that would later compose thecountry's first national park, Yellowstone.

Traversing the park is still an adventuresome experience yearslater, even if you roll along watching wildlife within the comfort ofyour SUV. Although the majority of the park lies in Wyoming, the twomajor entrances are in Montana, which earns its moniker as Big SkyCountry quite well as expansive clouds rise on an endless horizon.Through twisting mountain passes shielded in the highest points ofthe Rockies (between 7,000 and 9,000 feet in elevation) the sceneryon the way to the park equals the beauty found within the boundariesof Yellowstone.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. As I look out the window, I see cityslickers of all types jumping out of their cars with cameras. Atourist from California pops out of his vehicle and declares, "Hey,kids, I think there's a moose down there!" This is known as an"animal jam."

It is recommended to approach the park from its west entrance.There you can view fly fishermen perched on the banks of the MadisonRiver and bait fisherman trying their luck in Earthquake Lake -reminiscent of scenes from the award-winning Norman McLean shortstory and subsequent motion picture "A River Runs Through It." Twoother advantages lie with this route: There's less traffic and youcan visit three Western states (Montana, Wyoming and, after a 10-minute detour, Idaho) in a single day.

In recent years, West Yellowstone, which borders the park, hasblossomed into a stereotypical tourist town complete with a rusticshanty McDonald's among other fast food offerings and souvenir shops(think Niagara Falls). A few hundred yards from the park is an IMAXcomplex, which daily shows a film about the famed national park.Though the documentary is not the same caliber as other IMAX journeysto Mount Everest or the Grand Canyon and is rather short for the $8admission fee, it gives visitors an appropriate grounding in thepark's historical and geological importance.

Admission to the park itself is relatively inexpensive for largefamilies - an entire carload can visit the park and the nearby GrandTeton mountain range for $20. Passes to the park are valid for aweek, so visitors can come and go from Yellowstone as they please.Many prefer to rough it within the park, entering the park withrecreational vehicles or with campers trailing behind minivans.Lodging is available inside the park as well.

From the west entrance, the initial scenery is quite surprisingand somewhat quashes expectations - however temporarily. A pair offorest fires in 1988 and 2001 ravaged the towering ponderosa pines,leaving slender, barren matchsticks in their wake. To preserve thenatural ambiance of the park and to allow nature to replenish itself,the lumber that parallels driftwood has been left in its place.Because of a hot, dry summer, forest fires have burned throughout theWest - including Yellowstone this year. Rather than try to extinguisheach fire, as long as permanent structures or homes are not in thepath of the flames, firefighters often simply let the conflagrationsburn themselves out.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. Everyone in our car wonders, "Is there anaccident?" "Could it be a roadblock?" "Are there just a lot of peoplehere?" As I look out the window, I see city slickers of all typesjumping out of their cars with cameras. This must be something tosee. Hundreds of people are lurking in the woods beside the road,stealthily camouflaged with brightly colored shirts and gigantic zoomlenses. A tourist from California pops out of his vehicle anddeclares, "Hey, kids, I think there's a moose down there!"

Known colloquially as "animal jams," hundreds of people descendfrom the road to a riverbed where a moose lays asleep to thecommotion. The peaceful serenity of nature is broken by cameraclicks, advancing film and cheers such as "Hey, Moose, can you lookup for a second?" The moose is either sleepy or camera-shy and couldeasily eat members of the public paparazzi for lunch.

Park rangers are scarce within Yellowstone and visitors walk amongthe habitat at their own risk. But the park newspaper that isdistributed to every visitor warns of foreboding animal attacks,stampedes, scaldings, drownings, maulings and other horribleaccidents that could happen.

Farther down the road, a collection of strange geysers known asthe Fountain Paint Pots are a must-see. Their strange aromas andnoises would certainly satisfy a 7-year-old boy. Geologically,Yellowstone lies over a "hot spot" and is the remnant of a volcaniccrater called a caldera. Hot water still brews underneath the surfaceuntil the pressure is so great that it bubbles to the surface, oftenin fantastic displays. Seismic readings are recorded daily, asanother eruption is eminent. Scientists try and predict the smallerhydrothermic eruptions that occur yearly, but are more concerned witha major explosion estimated at 20,000 years down the road that couldcreate havoc from Yellowstone to Bozeman, Mont.

Despite their ominous presence, the nearly 10,000 geysers areworth visiting (not every single one, of course) and vary in colorfrom sky blue to jack-o'-lantern orange. Some appear as bubblingconcrete, others smell like rotten eggs, while others produce heatthat reaches several hundred degrees.

Perhaps the most well-known geyser of all is Old Faithful. Thoughyears ago the interval between its eruption times was clocked atprecisely an hour, as the geology of the park changes, the rush ofsteam to the surface has become more erratic. Park officials statethat Old Faithful blows her top approximately every 94 minutes -however, that time can stretch to 120 minutes. (And don't ask parkofficials about the Metamucil commercial where they stuff the fiberproduct down the geyser to keep it regular. They don't find itfunny.)

Thousands gather around the circular base of the geyser every hourand a half and sit on benches. It's a great place to chat with peoplefrom across the country as you sit there waiting for water to spewout of the ground 200 feet in the air. Don't be fooled by theminiature shows of power that occur before the real eruption, as onefamily was. Several minutes before the actual expulsion of scalding,hot water occurs, steam shoots up from the geyser. Unfortunately, amother and her son walked away muttering, "I'm sorry Jake, that's allit was, buddy." The real eruption is a spectacular show of nature atwork. Slowly, the water builds to a crescendo and a height of severalstories in the air. Again, cameras flash and people turn their necksat an uncomfortable angle to see the water show.

Yellowstone Lake lies a few miles from Old Faithful and is themost visual representation of the park's geologic past. The perfectlyround lake is the shape of the ancient caldera that remains from theinitial blast 150,000 years ago. Today, the lake circles the parktranquilly, although visible wildfires hazed the sky in the distance.It's a favorite watering hole along with nearby waterfalls for bison,as signs remind to not approach the animals.

Yellowstone is difficult to see in just a couple of days. The parkspans an unfathomable 3,472 square miles of territory, making for alengthy expedition (maybe that's why Lewis and Clark bypassed thearea in the first place). But Yellowstone Park is an unforgettableexhibition of nature that shouldn't be missed.

Eons in the making: Yellowstone, America's first national park, is as thrilling as ever

If you go Yellowstone Park is open year-round, although in thewinter months, only the north entrance is accessible by the public.The peak season runs from April to November and visitors can enterthe park at four spots: Cody and Jackson, Wyo., and Gardiner and WestYellowstone, Mont. WHEN Thomas Jefferson sent two intrepidmountaineers into the wilderness to find an all-water route to thePacific, no one imagined the untamed wilderness that Meriwether Lewisand William Clark would explore. Though the pair stopped 50 milesoutside Yellowstone, a member of their entourage, John Colter,decided to split from the return caravan eastward to explore more ofthe virgin terrain. In his journals, he described the nearly volcanicgeysers and crystal-clear lakes that would later compose thecountry's first national park, Yellowstone.

Traversing the park is still an adventuresome experience yearslater, even if you roll along watching wildlife within the comfort ofyour SUV. Although the majority of the park lies in Wyoming, the twomajor entrances are in Montana, which earns its moniker as Big SkyCountry quite well as expansive clouds rise on an endless horizon.Through twisting mountain passes shielded in the highest points ofthe Rockies (between 7,000 and 9,000 feet in elevation) the sceneryon the way to the park equals the beauty found within the boundariesof Yellowstone.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. As I look out the window, I see cityslickers of all types jumping out of their cars with cameras. Atourist from California pops out of his vehicle and declares, "Hey,kids, I think there's a moose down there!" This is known as an"animal jam."

It is recommended to approach the park from its west entrance.There you can view fly fishermen perched on the banks of the MadisonRiver and bait fisherman trying their luck in Earthquake Lake -reminiscent of scenes from the award-winning Norman McLean shortstory and subsequent motion picture "A River Runs Through It." Twoother advantages lie with this route: There's less traffic and youcan visit three Western states (Montana, Wyoming and, after a 10-minute detour, Idaho) in a single day.

In recent years, West Yellowstone, which borders the park, hasblossomed into a stereotypical tourist town complete with a rusticshanty McDonald's among other fast food offerings and souvenir shops(think Niagara Falls). A few hundred yards from the park is an IMAXcomplex, which daily shows a film about the famed national park.Though the documentary is not the same caliber as other IMAX journeysto Mount Everest or the Grand Canyon and is rather short for the $8admission fee, it gives visitors an appropriate grounding in thepark's historical and geological importance.

Admission to the park itself is relatively inexpensive for largefamilies - an entire carload can visit the park and the nearby GrandTeton mountain range for $20. Passes to the park are valid for aweek, so visitors can come and go from Yellowstone as they please.Many prefer to rough it within the park, entering the park withrecreational vehicles or with campers trailing behind minivans.Lodging is available inside the park as well.

From the west entrance, the initial scenery is quite surprisingand somewhat quashes expectations - however temporarily. A pair offorest fires in 1988 and 2001 ravaged the towering ponderosa pines,leaving slender, barren matchsticks in their wake. To preserve thenatural ambiance of the park and to allow nature to replenish itself,the lumber that parallels driftwood has been left in its place.Because of a hot, dry summer, forest fires have burned throughout theWest - including Yellowstone this year. Rather than try to extinguisheach fire, as long as permanent structures or homes are not in thepath of the flames, firefighters often simply let the conflagrationsburn themselves out.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. Everyone in our car wonders, "Is there anaccident?" "Could it be a roadblock?" "Are there just a lot of peoplehere?" As I look out the window, I see city slickers of all typesjumping out of their cars with cameras. This must be something tosee. Hundreds of people are lurking in the woods beside the road,stealthily camouflaged with brightly colored shirts and gigantic zoomlenses. A tourist from California pops out of his vehicle anddeclares, "Hey, kids, I think there's a moose down there!"

Known colloquially as "animal jams," hundreds of people descendfrom the road to a riverbed where a moose lays asleep to thecommotion. The peaceful serenity of nature is broken by cameraclicks, advancing film and cheers such as "Hey, Moose, can you lookup for a second?" The moose is either sleepy or camera-shy and couldeasily eat members of the public paparazzi for lunch.

Park rangers are scarce within Yellowstone and visitors walk amongthe habitat at their own risk. But the park newspaper that isdistributed to every visitor warns of foreboding animal attacks,stampedes, scaldings, drownings, maulings and other horribleaccidents that could happen.

Farther down the road, a collection of strange geysers known asthe Fountain Paint Pots are a must-see. Their strange aromas andnoises would certainly satisfy a 7-year-old boy. Geologically,Yellowstone lies over a "hot spot" and is the remnant of a volcaniccrater called a caldera. Hot water still brews underneath the surfaceuntil the pressure is so great that it bubbles to the surface, oftenin fantastic displays. Seismic readings are recorded daily, asanother eruption is eminent. Scientists try and predict the smallerhydrothermic eruptions that occur yearly, but are more concerned witha major explosion estimated at 20,000 years down the road that couldcreate havoc from Yellowstone to Bozeman, Mont.

Despite their ominous presence, the nearly 10,000 geysers areworth visiting (not every single one, of course) and vary in colorfrom sky blue to jack-o'-lantern orange. Some appear as bubblingconcrete, others smell like rotten eggs, while others produce heatthat reaches several hundred degrees.

Perhaps the most well-known geyser of all is Old Faithful. Thoughyears ago the interval between its eruption times was clocked atprecisely an hour, as the geology of the park changes, the rush ofsteam to the surface has become more erratic. Park officials statethat Old Faithful blows her top approximately every 94 minutes -however, that time can stretch to 120 minutes. (And don't ask parkofficials about the Metamucil commercial where they stuff the fiberproduct down the geyser to keep it regular. They don't find itfunny.)

Thousands gather around the circular base of the geyser every hourand a half and sit on benches. It's a great place to chat with peoplefrom across the country as you sit there waiting for water to spewout of the ground 200 feet in the air. Don't be fooled by theminiature shows of power that occur before the real eruption, as onefamily was. Several minutes before the actual expulsion of scalding,hot water occurs, steam shoots up from the geyser. Unfortunately, amother and her son walked away muttering, "I'm sorry Jake, that's allit was, buddy." The real eruption is a spectacular show of nature atwork. Slowly, the water builds to a crescendo and a height of severalstories in the air. Again, cameras flash and people turn their necksat an uncomfortable angle to see the water show.

Yellowstone Lake lies a few miles from Old Faithful and is themost visual representation of the park's geologic past. The perfectlyround lake is the shape of the ancient caldera that remains from theinitial blast 150,000 years ago. Today, the lake circles the parktranquilly, although visible wildfires hazed the sky in the distance.It's a favorite watering hole along with nearby waterfalls for bison,as signs remind to not approach the animals.

Yellowstone is difficult to see in just a couple of days. The parkspans an unfathomable 3,472 square miles of territory, making for alengthy expedition (maybe that's why Lewis and Clark bypassed thearea in the first place). But Yellowstone Park is an unforgettableexhibition of nature that shouldn't be missed.

Eons in the making: Yellowstone, America's first national park, is as thrilling as ever

If you go Yellowstone Park is open year-round, although in thewinter months, only the north entrance is accessible by the public.The peak season runs from April to November and visitors can enterthe park at four spots: Cody and Jackson, Wyo., and Gardiner and WestYellowstone, Mont. WHEN Thomas Jefferson sent two intrepidmountaineers into the wilderness to find an all-water route to thePacific, no one imagined the untamed wilderness that Meriwether Lewisand William Clark would explore. Though the pair stopped 50 milesoutside Yellowstone, a member of their entourage, John Colter,decided to split from the return caravan eastward to explore more ofthe virgin terrain. In his journals, he described the nearly volcanicgeysers and crystal-clear lakes that would later compose thecountry's first national park, Yellowstone.

Traversing the park is still an adventuresome experience yearslater, even if you roll along watching wildlife within the comfort ofyour SUV. Although the majority of the park lies in Wyoming, the twomajor entrances are in Montana, which earns its moniker as Big SkyCountry quite well as expansive clouds rise on an endless horizon.Through twisting mountain passes shielded in the highest points ofthe Rockies (between 7,000 and 9,000 feet in elevation) the sceneryon the way to the park equals the beauty found within the boundariesof Yellowstone.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. As I look out the window, I see cityslickers of all types jumping out of their cars with cameras. Atourist from California pops out of his vehicle and declares, "Hey,kids, I think there's a moose down there!" This is known as an"animal jam."

It is recommended to approach the park from its west entrance.There you can view fly fishermen perched on the banks of the MadisonRiver and bait fisherman trying their luck in Earthquake Lake -reminiscent of scenes from the award-winning Norman McLean shortstory and subsequent motion picture "A River Runs Through It." Twoother advantages lie with this route: There's less traffic and youcan visit three Western states (Montana, Wyoming and, after a 10-minute detour, Idaho) in a single day.

In recent years, West Yellowstone, which borders the park, hasblossomed into a stereotypical tourist town complete with a rusticshanty McDonald's among other fast food offerings and souvenir shops(think Niagara Falls). A few hundred yards from the park is an IMAXcomplex, which daily shows a film about the famed national park.Though the documentary is not the same caliber as other IMAX journeysto Mount Everest or the Grand Canyon and is rather short for the $8admission fee, it gives visitors an appropriate grounding in thepark's historical and geological importance.

Admission to the park itself is relatively inexpensive for largefamilies - an entire carload can visit the park and the nearby GrandTeton mountain range for $20. Passes to the park are valid for aweek, so visitors can come and go from Yellowstone as they please.Many prefer to rough it within the park, entering the park withrecreational vehicles or with campers trailing behind minivans.Lodging is available inside the park as well.

From the west entrance, the initial scenery is quite surprisingand somewhat quashes expectations - however temporarily. A pair offorest fires in 1988 and 2001 ravaged the towering ponderosa pines,leaving slender, barren matchsticks in their wake. To preserve thenatural ambiance of the park and to allow nature to replenish itself,the lumber that parallels driftwood has been left in its place.Because of a hot, dry summer, forest fires have burned throughout theWest - including Yellowstone this year. Rather than try to extinguisheach fire, as long as permanent structures or homes are not in thepath of the flames, firefighters often simply let the conflagrationsburn themselves out.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. Everyone in our car wonders, "Is there anaccident?" "Could it be a roadblock?" "Are there just a lot of peoplehere?" As I look out the window, I see city slickers of all typesjumping out of their cars with cameras. This must be something tosee. Hundreds of people are lurking in the woods beside the road,stealthily camouflaged with brightly colored shirts and gigantic zoomlenses. A tourist from California pops out of his vehicle anddeclares, "Hey, kids, I think there's a moose down there!"

Known colloquially as "animal jams," hundreds of people descendfrom the road to a riverbed where a moose lays asleep to thecommotion. The peaceful serenity of nature is broken by cameraclicks, advancing film and cheers such as "Hey, Moose, can you lookup for a second?" The moose is either sleepy or camera-shy and couldeasily eat members of the public paparazzi for lunch.

Park rangers are scarce within Yellowstone and visitors walk amongthe habitat at their own risk. But the park newspaper that isdistributed to every visitor warns of foreboding animal attacks,stampedes, scaldings, drownings, maulings and other horribleaccidents that could happen.

Farther down the road, a collection of strange geysers known asthe Fountain Paint Pots are a must-see. Their strange aromas andnoises would certainly satisfy a 7-year-old boy. Geologically,Yellowstone lies over a "hot spot" and is the remnant of a volcaniccrater called a caldera. Hot water still brews underneath the surfaceuntil the pressure is so great that it bubbles to the surface, oftenin fantastic displays. Seismic readings are recorded daily, asanother eruption is eminent. Scientists try and predict the smallerhydrothermic eruptions that occur yearly, but are more concerned witha major explosion estimated at 20,000 years down the road that couldcreate havoc from Yellowstone to Bozeman, Mont.

Despite their ominous presence, the nearly 10,000 geysers areworth visiting (not every single one, of course) and vary in colorfrom sky blue to jack-o'-lantern orange. Some appear as bubblingconcrete, others smell like rotten eggs, while others produce heatthat reaches several hundred degrees.

Perhaps the most well-known geyser of all is Old Faithful. Thoughyears ago the interval between its eruption times was clocked atprecisely an hour, as the geology of the park changes, the rush ofsteam to the surface has become more erratic. Park officials statethat Old Faithful blows her top approximately every 94 minutes -however, that time can stretch to 120 minutes. (And don't ask parkofficials about the Metamucil commercial where they stuff the fiberproduct down the geyser to keep it regular. They don't find itfunny.)

Thousands gather around the circular base of the geyser every hourand a half and sit on benches. It's a great place to chat with peoplefrom across the country as you sit there waiting for water to spewout of the ground 200 feet in the air. Don't be fooled by theminiature shows of power that occur before the real eruption, as onefamily was. Several minutes before the actual expulsion of scalding,hot water occurs, steam shoots up from the geyser. Unfortunately, amother and her son walked away muttering, "I'm sorry Jake, that's allit was, buddy." The real eruption is a spectacular show of nature atwork. Slowly, the water builds to a crescendo and a height of severalstories in the air. Again, cameras flash and people turn their necksat an uncomfortable angle to see the water show.

Yellowstone Lake lies a few miles from Old Faithful and is themost visual representation of the park's geologic past. The perfectlyround lake is the shape of the ancient caldera that remains from theinitial blast 150,000 years ago. Today, the lake circles the parktranquilly, although visible wildfires hazed the sky in the distance.It's a favorite watering hole along with nearby waterfalls for bison,as signs remind to not approach the animals.

Yellowstone is difficult to see in just a couple of days. The parkspans an unfathomable 3,472 square miles of territory, making for alengthy expedition (maybe that's why Lewis and Clark bypassed thearea in the first place). But Yellowstone Park is an unforgettableexhibition of nature that shouldn't be missed.

Eons in the making: Yellowstone, America's first national park, is as thrilling as ever

If you go Yellowstone Park is open year-round, although in thewinter months, only the north entrance is accessible by the public.The peak season runs from April to November and visitors can enterthe park at four spots: Cody and Jackson, Wyo., and Gardiner and WestYellowstone, Mont. WHEN Thomas Jefferson sent two intrepidmountaineers into the wilderness to find an all-water route to thePacific, no one imagined the untamed wilderness that Meriwether Lewisand William Clark would explore. Though the pair stopped 50 milesoutside Yellowstone, a member of their entourage, John Colter,decided to split from the return caravan eastward to explore more ofthe virgin terrain. In his journals, he described the nearly volcanicgeysers and crystal-clear lakes that would later compose thecountry's first national park, Yellowstone.

Traversing the park is still an adventuresome experience yearslater, even if you roll along watching wildlife within the comfort ofyour SUV. Although the majority of the park lies in Wyoming, the twomajor entrances are in Montana, which earns its moniker as Big SkyCountry quite well as expansive clouds rise on an endless horizon.Through twisting mountain passes shielded in the highest points ofthe Rockies (between 7,000 and 9,000 feet in elevation) the sceneryon the way to the park equals the beauty found within the boundariesof Yellowstone.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. As I look out the window, I see cityslickers of all types jumping out of their cars with cameras. Atourist from California pops out of his vehicle and declares, "Hey,kids, I think there's a moose down there!" This is known as an"animal jam."

It is recommended to approach the park from its west entrance.There you can view fly fishermen perched on the banks of the MadisonRiver and bait fisherman trying their luck in Earthquake Lake -reminiscent of scenes from the award-winning Norman McLean shortstory and subsequent motion picture "A River Runs Through It." Twoother advantages lie with this route: There's less traffic and youcan visit three Western states (Montana, Wyoming and, after a 10-minute detour, Idaho) in a single day.

In recent years, West Yellowstone, which borders the park, hasblossomed into a stereotypical tourist town complete with a rusticshanty McDonald's among other fast food offerings and souvenir shops(think Niagara Falls). A few hundred yards from the park is an IMAXcomplex, which daily shows a film about the famed national park.Though the documentary is not the same caliber as other IMAX journeysto Mount Everest or the Grand Canyon and is rather short for the $8admission fee, it gives visitors an appropriate grounding in thepark's historical and geological importance.

Admission to the park itself is relatively inexpensive for largefamilies - an entire carload can visit the park and the nearby GrandTeton mountain range for $20. Passes to the park are valid for aweek, so visitors can come and go from Yellowstone as they please.Many prefer to rough it within the park, entering the park withrecreational vehicles or with campers trailing behind minivans.Lodging is available inside the park as well.

From the west entrance, the initial scenery is quite surprisingand somewhat quashes expectations - however temporarily. A pair offorest fires in 1988 and 2001 ravaged the towering ponderosa pines,leaving slender, barren matchsticks in their wake. To preserve thenatural ambiance of the park and to allow nature to replenish itself,the lumber that parallels driftwood has been left in its place.Because of a hot, dry summer, forest fires have burned throughout theWest - including Yellowstone this year. Rather than try to extinguisheach fire, as long as permanent structures or homes are not in thepath of the flames, firefighters often simply let the conflagrationsburn themselves out.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. Everyone in our car wonders, "Is there anaccident?" "Could it be a roadblock?" "Are there just a lot of peoplehere?" As I look out the window, I see city slickers of all typesjumping out of their cars with cameras. This must be something tosee. Hundreds of people are lurking in the woods beside the road,stealthily camouflaged with brightly colored shirts and gigantic zoomlenses. A tourist from California pops out of his vehicle anddeclares, "Hey, kids, I think there's a moose down there!"

Known colloquially as "animal jams," hundreds of people descendfrom the road to a riverbed where a moose lays asleep to thecommotion. The peaceful serenity of nature is broken by cameraclicks, advancing film and cheers such as "Hey, Moose, can you lookup for a second?" The moose is either sleepy or camera-shy and couldeasily eat members of the public paparazzi for lunch.

Park rangers are scarce within Yellowstone and visitors walk amongthe habitat at their own risk. But the park newspaper that isdistributed to every visitor warns of foreboding animal attacks,stampedes, scaldings, drownings, maulings and other horribleaccidents that could happen.

Farther down the road, a collection of strange geysers known asthe Fountain Paint Pots are a must-see. Their strange aromas andnoises would certainly satisfy a 7-year-old boy. Geologically,Yellowstone lies over a "hot spot" and is the remnant of a volcaniccrater called a caldera. Hot water still brews underneath the surfaceuntil the pressure is so great that it bubbles to the surface, oftenin fantastic displays. Seismic readings are recorded daily, asanother eruption is eminent. Scientists try and predict the smallerhydrothermic eruptions that occur yearly, but are more concerned witha major explosion estimated at 20,000 years down the road that couldcreate havoc from Yellowstone to Bozeman, Mont.

Despite their ominous presence, the nearly 10,000 geysers areworth visiting (not every single one, of course) and vary in colorfrom sky blue to jack-o'-lantern orange. Some appear as bubblingconcrete, others smell like rotten eggs, while others produce heatthat reaches several hundred degrees.

Perhaps the most well-known geyser of all is Old Faithful. Thoughyears ago the interval between its eruption times was clocked atprecisely an hour, as the geology of the park changes, the rush ofsteam to the surface has become more erratic. Park officials statethat Old Faithful blows her top approximately every 94 minutes -however, that time can stretch to 120 minutes. (And don't ask parkofficials about the Metamucil commercial where they stuff the fiberproduct down the geyser to keep it regular. They don't find itfunny.)

Thousands gather around the circular base of the geyser every hourand a half and sit on benches. It's a great place to chat with peoplefrom across the country as you sit there waiting for water to spewout of the ground 200 feet in the air. Don't be fooled by theminiature shows of power that occur before the real eruption, as onefamily was. Several minutes before the actual expulsion of scalding,hot water occurs, steam shoots up from the geyser. Unfortunately, amother and her son walked away muttering, "I'm sorry Jake, that's allit was, buddy." The real eruption is a spectacular show of nature atwork. Slowly, the water builds to a crescendo and a height of severalstories in the air. Again, cameras flash and people turn their necksat an uncomfortable angle to see the water show.

Yellowstone Lake lies a few miles from Old Faithful and is themost visual representation of the park's geologic past. The perfectlyround lake is the shape of the ancient caldera that remains from theinitial blast 150,000 years ago. Today, the lake circles the parktranquilly, although visible wildfires hazed the sky in the distance.It's a favorite watering hole along with nearby waterfalls for bison,as signs remind to not approach the animals.

Yellowstone is difficult to see in just a couple of days. The parkspans an unfathomable 3,472 square miles of territory, making for alengthy expedition (maybe that's why Lewis and Clark bypassed thearea in the first place). But Yellowstone Park is an unforgettableexhibition of nature that shouldn't be missed.

Eons in the making: Yellowstone, America's first national park, is as thrilling as ever

If you go Yellowstone Park is open year-round, although in thewinter months, only the north entrance is accessible by the public.The peak season runs from April to November and visitors can enterthe park at four spots: Cody and Jackson, Wyo., and Gardiner and WestYellowstone, Mont. WHEN Thomas Jefferson sent two intrepidmountaineers into the wilderness to find an all-water route to thePacific, no one imagined the untamed wilderness that Meriwether Lewisand William Clark would explore. Though the pair stopped 50 milesoutside Yellowstone, a member of their entourage, John Colter,decided to split from the return caravan eastward to explore more ofthe virgin terrain. In his journals, he described the nearly volcanicgeysers and crystal-clear lakes that would later compose thecountry's first national park, Yellowstone.

Traversing the park is still an adventuresome experience yearslater, even if you roll along watching wildlife within the comfort ofyour SUV. Although the majority of the park lies in Wyoming, the twomajor entrances are in Montana, which earns its moniker as Big SkyCountry quite well as expansive clouds rise on an endless horizon.Through twisting mountain passes shielded in the highest points ofthe Rockies (between 7,000 and 9,000 feet in elevation) the sceneryon the way to the park equals the beauty found within the boundariesof Yellowstone.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. As I look out the window, I see cityslickers of all types jumping out of their cars with cameras. Atourist from California pops out of his vehicle and declares, "Hey,kids, I think there's a moose down there!" This is known as an"animal jam."

It is recommended to approach the park from its west entrance.There you can view fly fishermen perched on the banks of the MadisonRiver and bait fisherman trying their luck in Earthquake Lake -reminiscent of scenes from the award-winning Norman McLean shortstory and subsequent motion picture "A River Runs Through It." Twoother advantages lie with this route: There's less traffic and youcan visit three Western states (Montana, Wyoming and, after a 10-minute detour, Idaho) in a single day.

In recent years, West Yellowstone, which borders the park, hasblossomed into a stereotypical tourist town complete with a rusticshanty McDonald's among other fast food offerings and souvenir shops(think Niagara Falls). A few hundred yards from the park is an IMAXcomplex, which daily shows a film about the famed national park.Though the documentary is not the same caliber as other IMAX journeysto Mount Everest or the Grand Canyon and is rather short for the $8admission fee, it gives visitors an appropriate grounding in thepark's historical and geological importance.

Admission to the park itself is relatively inexpensive for largefamilies - an entire carload can visit the park and the nearby GrandTeton mountain range for $20. Passes to the park are valid for aweek, so visitors can come and go from Yellowstone as they please.Many prefer to rough it within the park, entering the park withrecreational vehicles or with campers trailing behind minivans.Lodging is available inside the park as well.

From the west entrance, the initial scenery is quite surprisingand somewhat quashes expectations - however temporarily. A pair offorest fires in 1988 and 2001 ravaged the towering ponderosa pines,leaving slender, barren matchsticks in their wake. To preserve thenatural ambiance of the park and to allow nature to replenish itself,the lumber that parallels driftwood has been left in its place.Because of a hot, dry summer, forest fires have burned throughout theWest - including Yellowstone this year. Rather than try to extinguisheach fire, as long as permanent structures or homes are not in thepath of the flames, firefighters often simply let the conflagrationsburn themselves out.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. Everyone in our car wonders, "Is there anaccident?" "Could it be a roadblock?" "Are there just a lot of peoplehere?" As I look out the window, I see city slickers of all typesjumping out of their cars with cameras. This must be something tosee. Hundreds of people are lurking in the woods beside the road,stealthily camouflaged with brightly colored shirts and gigantic zoomlenses. A tourist from California pops out of his vehicle anddeclares, "Hey, kids, I think there's a moose down there!"

Known colloquially as "animal jams," hundreds of people descendfrom the road to a riverbed where a moose lays asleep to thecommotion. The peaceful serenity of nature is broken by cameraclicks, advancing film and cheers such as "Hey, Moose, can you lookup for a second?" The moose is either sleepy or camera-shy and couldeasily eat members of the public paparazzi for lunch.

Park rangers are scarce within Yellowstone and visitors walk amongthe habitat at their own risk. But the park newspaper that isdistributed to every visitor warns of foreboding animal attacks,stampedes, scaldings, drownings, maulings and other horribleaccidents that could happen.

Farther down the road, a collection of strange geysers known asthe Fountain Paint Pots are a must-see. Their strange aromas andnoises would certainly satisfy a 7-year-old boy. Geologically,Yellowstone lies over a "hot spot" and is the remnant of a volcaniccrater called a caldera. Hot water still brews underneath the surfaceuntil the pressure is so great that it bubbles to the surface, oftenin fantastic displays. Seismic readings are recorded daily, asanother eruption is eminent. Scientists try and predict the smallerhydrothermic eruptions that occur yearly, but are more concerned witha major explosion estimated at 20,000 years down the road that couldcreate havoc from Yellowstone to Bozeman, Mont.

Despite their ominous presence, the nearly 10,000 geysers areworth visiting (not every single one, of course) and vary in colorfrom sky blue to jack-o'-lantern orange. Some appear as bubblingconcrete, others smell like rotten eggs, while others produce heatthat reaches several hundred degrees.

Perhaps the most well-known geyser of all is Old Faithful. Thoughyears ago the interval between its eruption times was clocked atprecisely an hour, as the geology of the park changes, the rush ofsteam to the surface has become more erratic. Park officials statethat Old Faithful blows her top approximately every 94 minutes -however, that time can stretch to 120 minutes. (And don't ask parkofficials about the Metamucil commercial where they stuff the fiberproduct down the geyser to keep it regular. They don't find itfunny.)

Thousands gather around the circular base of the geyser every hourand a half and sit on benches. It's a great place to chat with peoplefrom across the country as you sit there waiting for water to spewout of the ground 200 feet in the air. Don't be fooled by theminiature shows of power that occur before the real eruption, as onefamily was. Several minutes before the actual expulsion of scalding,hot water occurs, steam shoots up from the geyser. Unfortunately, amother and her son walked away muttering, "I'm sorry Jake, that's allit was, buddy." The real eruption is a spectacular show of nature atwork. Slowly, the water builds to a crescendo and a height of severalstories in the air. Again, cameras flash and people turn their necksat an uncomfortable angle to see the water show.

Yellowstone Lake lies a few miles from Old Faithful and is themost visual representation of the park's geologic past. The perfectlyround lake is the shape of the ancient caldera that remains from theinitial blast 150,000 years ago. Today, the lake circles the parktranquilly, although visible wildfires hazed the sky in the distance.It's a favorite watering hole along with nearby waterfalls for bison,as signs remind to not approach the animals.

Yellowstone is difficult to see in just a couple of days. The parkspans an unfathomable 3,472 square miles of territory, making for alengthy expedition (maybe that's why Lewis and Clark bypassed thearea in the first place). But Yellowstone Park is an unforgettableexhibition of nature that shouldn't be missed.

Eons in the making: Yellowstone, America's first national park, is as thrilling as ever

If you go Yellowstone Park is open year-round, although in thewinter months, only the north entrance is accessible by the public.The peak season runs from April to November and visitors can enterthe park at four spots: Cody and Jackson, Wyo., and Gardiner and WestYellowstone, Mont. WHEN Thomas Jefferson sent two intrepidmountaineers into the wilderness to find an all-water route to thePacific, no one imagined the untamed wilderness that Meriwether Lewisand William Clark would explore. Though the pair stopped 50 milesoutside Yellowstone, a member of their entourage, John Colter,decided to split from the return caravan eastward to explore more ofthe virgin terrain. In his journals, he described the nearly volcanicgeysers and crystal-clear lakes that would later compose thecountry's first national park, Yellowstone.

Traversing the park is still an adventuresome experience yearslater, even if you roll along watching wildlife within the comfort ofyour SUV. Although the majority of the park lies in Wyoming, the twomajor entrances are in Montana, which earns its moniker as Big SkyCountry quite well as expansive clouds rise on an endless horizon.Through twisting mountain passes shielded in the highest points ofthe Rockies (between 7,000 and 9,000 feet in elevation) the sceneryon the way to the park equals the beauty found within the boundariesof Yellowstone.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. As I look out the window, I see cityslickers of all types jumping out of their cars with cameras. Atourist from California pops out of his vehicle and declares, "Hey,kids, I think there's a moose down there!" This is known as an"animal jam."

It is recommended to approach the park from its west entrance.There you can view fly fishermen perched on the banks of the MadisonRiver and bait fisherman trying their luck in Earthquake Lake -reminiscent of scenes from the award-winning Norman McLean shortstory and subsequent motion picture "A River Runs Through It." Twoother advantages lie with this route: There's less traffic and youcan visit three Western states (Montana, Wyoming and, after a 10-minute detour, Idaho) in a single day.

In recent years, West Yellowstone, which borders the park, hasblossomed into a stereotypical tourist town complete with a rusticshanty McDonald's among other fast food offerings and souvenir shops(think Niagara Falls). A few hundred yards from the park is an IMAXcomplex, which daily shows a film about the famed national park.Though the documentary is not the same caliber as other IMAX journeysto Mount Everest or the Grand Canyon and is rather short for the $8admission fee, it gives visitors an appropriate grounding in thepark's historical and geological importance.

Admission to the park itself is relatively inexpensive for largefamilies - an entire carload can visit the park and the nearby GrandTeton mountain range for $20. Passes to the park are valid for aweek, so visitors can come and go from Yellowstone as they please.Many prefer to rough it within the park, entering the park withrecreational vehicles or with campers trailing behind minivans.Lodging is available inside the park as well.

From the west entrance, the initial scenery is quite surprisingand somewhat quashes expectations - however temporarily. A pair offorest fires in 1988 and 2001 ravaged the towering ponderosa pines,leaving slender, barren matchsticks in their wake. To preserve thenatural ambiance of the park and to allow nature to replenish itself,the lumber that parallels driftwood has been left in its place.Because of a hot, dry summer, forest fires have burned throughout theWest - including Yellowstone this year. Rather than try to extinguisheach fire, as long as permanent structures or homes are not in thepath of the flames, firefighters often simply let the conflagrationsburn themselves out.

About 10 miles into the park, there's a traffic jam that wouldrival any urban commute. Everyone in our car wonders, "Is there anaccident?" "Could it be a roadblock?" "Are there just a lot of peoplehere?" As I look out the window, I see city slickers of all typesjumping out of their cars with cameras. This must be something tosee. Hundreds of people are lurking in the woods beside the road,stealthily camouflaged with brightly colored shirts and gigantic zoomlenses. A tourist from California pops out of his vehicle anddeclares, "Hey, kids, I think there's a moose down there!"

Known colloquially as "animal jams," hundreds of people descendfrom the road to a riverbed where a moose lays asleep to thecommotion. The peaceful serenity of nature is broken by cameraclicks, advancing film and cheers such as "Hey, Moose, can you lookup for a second?" The moose is either sleepy or camera-shy and couldeasily eat members of the public paparazzi for lunch.

Park rangers are scarce within Yellowstone and visitors walk amongthe habitat at their own risk. But the park newspaper that isdistributed to every visitor warns of foreboding animal attacks,stampedes, scaldings, drownings, maulings and other horribleaccidents that could happen.

Farther down the road, a collection of strange geysers known asthe Fountain Paint Pots are a must-see. Their strange aromas andnoises would certainly satisfy a 7-year-old boy. Geologically,Yellowstone lies over a "hot spot" and is the remnant of a volcaniccrater called a caldera. Hot water still brews underneath the surfaceuntil the pressure is so great that it bubbles to the surface, oftenin fantastic displays. Seismic readings are recorded daily, asanother eruption is eminent. Scientists try and predict the smallerhydrothermic eruptions that occur yearly, but are more concerned witha major explosion estimated at 20,000 years down the road that couldcreate havoc from Yellowstone to Bozeman, Mont.

Despite their ominous presence, the nearly 10,000 geysers areworth visiting (not every single one, of course) and vary in colorfrom sky blue to jack-o'-lantern orange. Some appear as bubblingconcrete, others smell like rotten eggs, while others produce heatthat reaches several hundred degrees.

Perhaps the most well-known geyser of all is Old Faithful. Thoughyears ago the interval between its eruption times was clocked atprecisely an hour, as the geology of the park changes, the rush ofsteam to the surface has become more erratic. Park officials statethat Old Faithful blows her top approximately every 94 minutes -however, that time can stretch to 120 minutes. (And don't ask parkofficials about the Metamucil commercial where they stuff the fiberproduct down the geyser to keep it regular. They don't find itfunny.)

Thousands gather around the circular base of the geyser every hourand a half and sit on benches. It's a great place to chat with peoplefrom across the country as you sit there waiting for water to spewout of the ground 200 feet in the air. Don't be fooled by theminiature shows of power that occur before the real eruption, as onefamily was. Several minutes before the actual expulsion of scalding,hot water occurs, steam shoots up from the geyser. Unfortunately, amother and her son walked away muttering, "I'm sorry Jake, that's allit was, buddy." The real eruption is a spectacular show of nature atwork. Slowly, the water builds to a crescendo and a height of severalstories in the air. Again, cameras flash and people turn their necksat an uncomfortable angle to see the water show.

Yellowstone Lake lies a few miles from Old Faithful and is themost visual representation of the park's geologic past. The perfectlyround lake is the shape of the ancient caldera that remains from theinitial blast 150,000 years ago. Today, the lake circles the parktranquilly, although visible wildfires hazed the sky in the distance.It's a favorite watering hole along with nearby waterfalls for bison,as signs remind to not approach the animals.

Yellowstone is difficult to see in just a couple of days. The parkspans an unfathomable 3,472 square miles of territory, making for alengthy expedition (maybe that's why Lewis and Clark bypassed thearea in the first place). But Yellowstone Park is an unforgettableexhibition of nature that shouldn't be missed.